Wonders in Wales

Enys has asked me to write something for a local Welsh newspaper, so here it is. It is time I got back into the swing of writing again!

This last week I have been visiting le Pays de Galles, spending four days in Tenby in South Wales and four in Denbigh in the north.

My friends surprised me with visits to two outstanding indoor attractions.
Both were developed by people passionate about their interests, who have
managed to turn those interests into businesses, allowing others to share
their passion. A bit like Barry Brickell and the Driving Creek Railway.

Silent World in Tenby is much more than just an aquarium.
Ginny and Russ are collectors and conservationists, whose passion is
the life in the seas and rivers around Wales.
Silent World is in a stone chapel, tucked away in suburban Tenby.
So unexpected and so intriguing, it took us a whole morning to explore what is really a very small aquarium, but which houses so much of interest.
The "thinking person's" Aquarium and Reptile Collection offers a fascinating
view of all sorts of aquatic creatures as well as reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates.
The owners have made sure each tank has full and informative notes, making
a visit so much more interesting.
I loved the pair of pot bellied sea horses, which obliged me by posing for
a photo at the front of the tank, the pregnant male's swollen belly so
stretched and white, it looked like it would burst.
The baby chameleons upstairs in the reptile section were fascinating, their
bodies a beautiful shade of green, scrambling over each other with their skinny white legs thrashing.
The little shop is stuffed with marine and reptilian paraphanalia, useful,
educational or just plain fun, and parents can relax with a cup of very
good coffee, while the children explore. It was so homely and friendly and
Ginny and Russ have just got the right touch to avoid it being "just
another attraction."
They have turned the 19th century chapel into a special place, which is
also the centre for the South West Wales Reptile &
Amphibian group(SWWRAG), giving help and advice, as well as selling home
breed stock.
The comments in the visitors book, "it managed to keep a two-year old
occupied and that's got to be good news," and, "well worth giving up a few hours on the beach for," were spot on.

I was a child in the fifties and my home was built in 1953 so I have a
special interest in that era. When my friends suggested visiting The
Fifties Museum I was very keen. Just outside Denbigh, hidden away down a
country drive in a jumble of old sheds and outhouses, Cae Dai was another
unexpected treat.
Sparrow Harrison is a passionate collector of fifties and sixties
memorabilia and one of Denbigh's more colourful characters.
He invites visitors to, "Experience the 1950's Era - when sex was forbidden
and smoking was chic!"
As we drove into the yard of what is still a working farm, the first thing
I spotted was an old Standard car. My mother had a Standard Eight when I was
a child in Australia and later I had my own Standard Ten, in which my
daughter Jennie and I travelled all over the North Island. I hadn't seen
one for years.
Inside we had a guided tour of the maze of 1950's rooms, displays of show
biz and sports memorabilia, classic cars, and in the crime area, the actual
lorry used in the Great Train Robbery and the police car, a much loved
Anglia, used in Heartbeat. This was a very popular series in New Zealand
and I couldn't resist putting on the policeman's hat and posing for a
photo.
It is a very hands on museum. The displays of everyday life, not unlike life in the
colonies, brought back many memories. I loved the 1950's kitchens and
sitting rooms. I couldn't stop smiling.
"From Drab to Fab," the visit was a delight. I could have spent all day
exploring.




http://www.silentworld.org.uk/sw%20frame.html

At home in Leeds again

I arrived here safely after enjoying the train journey from Shrewsbury through the beautiful English countryside. I am trying to work out why people say it is so beautiful in New Zealand, when it is just as lovely here. In a different way of course. I think our scenery changes more dramatically and frequently as you travel through it.
But I love the green rolling farmland, with its patchwork of wheat fields, hedges and deciduous trees, and cows grazing peacefully. The old brick, or stone farm buildings and the occasional glimpse of a stately home through the trees. It all has that look about it which is unique, quite unlike the countryside in France.

While in Much Wenlock I was able to attend a Big Band practice with Lesley and David. Lesley conducts the band and David plays guitar. Lesley also plays in a saxophone quartet and on the Sunday we went to the back of beyond, somewhere south of Ludlow, for a performance. The group played the lunchtime gig as background music for people on a cross country walk, part of the Ludlow festival of food and wine. The 400 walkers stopped off at this beautiful reception lounge,(not all at once), in the depth of the countryside, for a spot of lunch; a dollop of stew, a bread roll and a half pint of ale! They each carried a beer mug on a yellow ribbon around their necks. I would have loved to have joined in the walk as it looked like a lot of fun. I just sat and enjoyed the music, providing the audience applause and reminding the walkers to show their appreciation.

We also went to a concert by the Ukulele Orchestra of Great Britain, at a huge, old church in Ludlow, also part of the festival. The concert was one of the highlights of my trip, which I had been looking forward to very much. I was not disappointed.
We all thoroughly enjoyed the music and their humour. What an incredibly professional and talented group! They are touring Britain at the moment and if you get a chance to go to a concert grab it. I can't imagine anyone not enjoying it.
Of course I have a particluar interest in the ukulele but even David (who is not easily impressed) was going off to a music shop the next day, to investigate ukuleles. I was very inspired. I can't wait to get home to start playing again. The following day on Radio Four there was an interview with the orchestra which was very interesting and filled in a lot of the history of the group.

Today, a brilliantly sunny day, I am off to explore Leeds to see what has changed since I was last here.

When I arrived, Daphne's mum Joan took me for a walk around Roundhay Park which is as lovely as ever. We used to live just down the road, at Bayswater Place, in a back-to-back terraced house and visited the park frequently. Lesley and David and I all lived there together at one stage. There is a new visitor centre which is very interesting and worth a visit.

Thank you to Jennie and Owen at Foxhole Rigg and Lesley and David at Foxglove Cottage for a really enjoyable and relaxing couple of weeks.
I loved their homes and gardens, both in beautiful settings. It was fun to share their lives again for a short time, and remember good times we shared in the past too. Altogether very inspiring.

This weekend I am hoping to go to Bradmore in Nottinghamshire and from there on to Tenby in Wales for a few days at the seaside, with Daphne and Stephen and family. It is a long way to go but I have to use up the rail pass anyway and the country side between here and there is lovely too.
I love the Pembrokeshire coast. I may be able to walk a bit further along the coastal pathway this time. Last time I visited Manorbier Castle, where The Lion The Witch and the Wardrobe was filmed. A stunning spot.

Oh to be in England

I'm not quite in the Lake District but in the Howgills area of Cumbria. Jennie and Owen moved here from Grange-Over-Sands last year. It is an opportunity for me to explore yet another beautiful and new-to-me corner of England. Foxhill Rigg is a lovely old stone farmhouse a few miles up the road from Sedbergh, near Cautley.

We went out on Friday night to a celidh (or however one spells it.It took me
back to the good old days with Lesley and David and the monthly Phoenix Barn dances in Leeds. Over dinner with some friends beforehand, we got out the old photos of the
Colony Holiday at Ballacloan on the Isle of Man where I met Jennie!
Much to the delight of the men I had a photo of Jennie (in about 1972,) in a bikini, dipping her toes into the North Sea, and she had one in her album, coming out of the water on the same occasion.

It was a struggle to get dressed and go out after that, as all I really wanted to do was to go to bed. However I survived the evening and even managed a few dances. I tried to pick the less strenuous ones but the caller didn't really give us much warning.

It is cool and fresh but the sun is trying to shine.
It is beautiful here in Sedbergh, with fields of wildflowers and stone walls surrounding the farmhouse and the hills and moorland just across the valley.

Jennie is developing a cottage garden around the house and the chooks and
Meg the dog, hang out in the farm yard. The only sounds are the birds, a pheasant calling in the field next door and the lambs calling to their mothers on the hillsides. Occasionally a jet fighter screams across the valley but presumably they don't do that at the weekends, so all is peaceful.

The only other sound is the squeaking of Meg's purple rugby ball or her hot dog as she tries to get me to throw it for her. She has adopted me as her new friend, as I talk to her and occasionally do oblige by throwing something.

We went into the Lake District last night, where Owen conducted a concert of choral music in a very old stone church, up a hidden valley at Kentmere. The man explained that the graveyard around the church was not mown because of the profusion of wild flowers and that it wouldn't be mown until the flowers set their seed in July. It was a breathtaking spot. Supper and a glass of wine were served in the interval. All very civilised.

The Allegri Singers and Players are an amateur group directed by Owen. The music was by Schulz, Marini, Biber, Bach and Vaughan Williams. Not quite my cup of tea but in such a magical setting, on a chilly but sunny evening and against the view through a picture window, of farm and moorland lit by the setting sun, it was most enjoyable. I especially liked the string intstruments accompanying the singers.
The Vaughan Williams Benedicite was powerful and very appropriate given the setting.

As we came home through Sedbergh at dusk last night, a couple were still playing tennis and it was 10:30pm! The light on the patchwork of mown fields and the distant hills was amazing.

Today we are off up into the hills to a Quaker meeting and 30 minute silence on the fells. It sounds different and a good chance again to mix with the locals! It must have something to do with this week being the longest day of the year.

It's summer and I arrive in London

Monday morning, in London at Lynda’s flat in Westminster. I don’t have to think in French anymore!
I slept for about 12 hours last night. The trip from Paris was rather eventful. Yvette deposited me at the Gare du Nord station in plenty of time, but as we arrived, the Eusrostar terminal was being closed down as a bomb had been found in somone’s luggage!
Some people waited inside, while I beat a hasty retreat to the edge of the pavement outside. We waited an hour and I must say everyone was very calm and resigned. Thank goodness they found it. Someone was trying to board the train prior to mine, with a grenade! Finally they opened the station again and we left one hour late, not bad considering the magnitude of the event.
Most People slept all the way to London, not surprisingly, as we were probably all feeling a little frazzled. I know I heaved a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into St Pancras, just two and a half hours after leaving Paris.

Lynda was waiting for me and she whisked me off to her lovely little flat to get ready for lunch at the Ritz! A birthday treat for my 60th later this year. We sat on the terrace in the sun and had a delicious and rather exotic lunch. My soup was an onion cappuccino, with goats cheese tagliatelli, very creamy and delicious and unlike anything I had ever tasted. I had pigeon for the first time, two tiny but delicious morsels, and then the most amazing dessert I think I have ever had. I am lost for words! I find myself eyeing up pigeons in a different way now.
(Mmmm, you've got a nice plump little breast!)

Summer arrived in London yesterday, and as we walked home through Green Park and St James Park everyone had come out to strip off and sun themselves on the grass.
It really took me back to 1971 when I first arrived in London.

It is another gorgeous morning and Lynda and I are going to Greenwich along the Thames. A great day to find a little pub by the river for lunch.

Paris was magnificent. So much cleaner than I remember and the buildings take your breath away. I overdosed on art museums with my two day museum pass and travelled up and down the Seine on the Batobus on another two day pass. I stayed at the Hotel de Rouen for the first two nights, as recmommended by Chris Stark. It was tiny, clean, basic, friendly and comfy, but most of all central. I could walk to the Louve in five minutes.

Then I stayed in Yvette’s lovely apartment for two nights. Just around the corner from the Place de la Republique and delightful. I joined Yvette for an outing for lunch with the NZ-France assocaiation she belongs to. All a lot of fun and a chance to practise my French. I was very privileged to spend another few days having an authentic French experience.
Thanks to all the lovely hosts I had in France I really enjoyed my time there. Total immersion is definitely the only way.

After I left Michel and Michel and my home away from home in Montpellier, I spent “un bon weekend in Avignon” with Claire and Philippe, their son Francois, and an American student Garrett. We practised our French on each other! It was a very family oriented visit which I really appreciated. Sunday lunch on the terrace under the wisteria with Louis, Claire’s father, was wonderful. It was another very French experience.

Then two days in the countryside at Jonquerette with Ruthilt and Andre. They took me out and about with two American friends on a tour of the Vaucluse area. It was stunning and so Provencal, with all the poppies, olive trees, geraniums in pots, cream, pink and orange buildings,fountains and ancient churches. It was amazing. I really was privileged to have the opportunity to be there with such lovely people.

On to Cumbria later this week to spend a few days with Jennie and Owen. Of course Jennie is my daughters namesake. We were close friends here in London in the swinging seventies and I am looking forward to catching up with them in their “new,” very old farmhouse in Sedbergh. A chance for reflection and cross country walks.

First Visit to Aix-en-Provence

I spent the weekend with a Servas couple near Aix-en-Provence just before I arrived in Montpellier. Philippe and Sylvie live in a lovely renovated maison in the country just outside the town. They were very welcoming. I lost most of the photos of that visit but I did manage to retrieve the ones of their house and garden, and of our breakfast on the last morning. Very French, very Provençal.

Visit to Séte

We visited Séte in the first week but I didn't get around to writing about it. The fishermen of the region around Rochelle, and now the fishermen on the south coast, have been on strike because of the high price of Gaz(oline.) Almost every night there is something in the news and Séte has featured prominently. There is a shortage of fish in the restaurants.

The highlight of our visit was Jean-Paul giving us a demonstration of the how, at the festival in Sète in summer, the Savateurs or competitors battle it out on board traditional boats.
It was quite a sight!

Afternoon in Nimes

With Jean-Paul leading the way, we explored Nimes yesterday afternoon.
It is about half an hour by TER train from Montpellier.

Fortunately the rain had stopped. The Arena was magnificent. It is massive and is still used for bullfighting. The blocks of stone that the Romans used in the original parts are unbelievably huge. The smaller blocks of stone are from the middle ages!

I didn't make it to the very top, as the steps were very high, but I did almost manage it and we were treated to a fight between a couple of gladiators performing for a school group. There weren't many tourists around so it was quite atmospheric.
I am going to send a post card of the arena to Mr Strick, my surgeon to show him what I am managing to achieve. This time last year I was on crutches and waiting to go into hopsital. The anniversary of my operation is June 15. it may be an occason for a celebration!

We scurried along behind Jean Paul to see the rest of the town, but à la Maison Carrée it was "au revoir JP" and I returned to some of the fascinating shops we had rushed past. I am finding it very hard to keep control of my credit card! I do write everything down, but it still has to be paid. I succumbed to some very expensive Provençal fabric which is divine. I am looking forward to making it up!

I also managed to buy two train tickets, one to Avignon on Saturday, then another to Paris on Wednesday next week.
I have two nights in Avignon with a French family then two nights in Jonquerettes outside Avignon, hopefully seeing a bit more Provencal countryside, before heading north.

La vie Francais

Finally I am coming to grips with the finer points of La Vie Francais.

I have learned to look to the left before I cross, walk on the right side of the pavement, avoid the dog droppings, open and close the shutters, and not show too much surprise when I trip over a dog on the tram.
Dogs are welcome everywhere it seems. In the trams, buses and also trains, along with bikes! Restaurants and shops (and maybe hotels) are also accessible to canine companions!

I have learnt the ins and outs of public transport, how to ask for a hot chocolate and "le compte s'il vous plait."

Today we go to either la plage at Palevas, or to Nimes to see yet more Roman ruins.
Yesterday I finally visited the Musee Fabre.
After a taxing morning in class, grappling with the finer points of French grammar, I only managed to see about half the art works but what I saw I enjoyed. I have come to the conclusion, that apart from some of the Flemish painters, I prefer the art of the 19th and 20th centuries. The works by local artists interest me because often I can recognise the locations.

Montpellier

My last week à Accent Francais and I am finally working out how to use these Apple computers at the school. The challenge of having a different French keyboard as well doesn't make for ease of use.

My camera is now working again, after a hitch with the memory card. Unfortunately I lost all the shots of Marseille and some lovely photos of my Servas host Natacha and her cat Laura. I am disappointed as there were some beautiful views of Marseille and also of an exhibition of pottery on the theme of animals, at a very interesting gallery in the old port district. The work was stunning. I was looking forward to showing the photos to the potters at home.

Marseille was fascinating, very working class, very much a Mediterrranean port and very historic. I was fascinated. A daily fish market is held alongside the fishing boats in the center of the old port. Of course the colourful photos I took are lost forever!
Michel showed me a book of historic photos of Marseille last night and I was interested to recognise some of the places I had visited, as they looked many years ago. Being here, it is not hard to appreicate just what it was like in times past, as many of the buildings are as they were, even if the surroundings have changed.

Montpellier is quite different. Smaller and cleaner and very nice! All the buildings are pink, cream, white or yellow and the newer structures blend well with the magnificent old buildings.
It is all very airy and light, with tall, shady plane trees lining the avenues, colourful flowers and the street sweepers constantly clean up the streets. The sea is 15km away but the town has a definite Sud de France feeling.
We haven't managed to get there yet, as it rained yesterday and our trip to Palevas was cancelled.

I am very impressed by the public transport system. There are two tram routes, the blue Ligne 1; blue trams with white birds and the orange ligne 2, with flamboyant yellow, red and orange flowers all over the trams.
There is even grass between some of the lines, which is kept tidy by a man on a ride on mower!

If I leave home at 8:35, I walk about 100m, the bus comes at 8:38. Two stops later I hop off onto the line 2 tram, a few minutes later I change at the Corum to the line 1 tram, then one stop (through a tunnel) et voila! I am in the beautiful Place De La Comedie, always by 9:10. The school is about 25 metres away. Most bus and tram stops have an electronic indicator telling you when the next trams or buses arrive. It is all very civilised!

Of course on Thursdays there is usually le Gréve, whch means a much reduced service and much frustration. But "c'est la France!"

Sur Le Pont D'Avignon

After a fairly exhausting week I elected to have a "do nothing" day and as it is raining, the first day since I arrived, I made the right decision. The Musée Fabré can wait till another afternoon.

We have just had an amazing Mother's Day lunch (the French have their own date) with Michelle's son Olivier. After lunch Michel showed Olivier the DVD of Coromandel and then I showed them Jennie's photos and they were very impressed.

We started lunch with little sweet and sour pigeon pies, followed by Coquilles St Jaques (or scallops) in leek and cream sauce. Then (I think) we had cheese, about five or six different kinds each mealtime. To finish, glacé with nuts on top and strawberry sauce, which was divine, and then cafe (au lait) pour moi.
All accompanied by three different bottles of medal winning French wines, one white and two red. Just as well we didn't finish all the contents. Now I am going to have to retire for a siesta! Not surprisingly!
I have actually started thinking in French. When I have a dream in French I will know I have "arrived".

I am all for an activity based holiday. It makes such a difference. I found yesterday in Avignon I had seen enough churches and the popes palace, although impressive by its size and history didn't do a lot for me.
I did like the bridge on the Rhone though, and of course Jean-Paul whipped out his flute and had the students dancing a traditional dance, "Sur le Pont d'Avignon." All the other tourists were delighted!

Accent Francais

It is the end of my first week at Accent Francais and it is time I wrote something about it.
It has been a very enjoyable experience so far, but exhausting.

Mornings from 9:30 till 12:00 we have class with Valerie, who is a brilliant professeur of Francais. To my surprise there are only three of us in the senior class, but it means one can't go to sleep or get out of having a turn at speaking.

Richard works for Boeing and comes from Derby. He and I usually have a sandwich to gether at lunchtime, in the park or on the steps of the Comedie Francais. Kenichi is from Osaka in Japan. He has a wife at home, working. I think he is retired.
We all speak in French most of the time.
We have a lot of laughs in the class, even if we are so few. I feel very lucky to have such an opportunity and to have such a good teacher is a bonus. Mostly, we speak (or listen) and there is only a minimum of writing. The little bit of homework is "optional". The school is expremely well organised and everyone is very friendly and helpful.

Most afternoons we have an excursion with Jean-Paul. This is a real experience!!
He is from Sete and has an "occidental temperament!" He is totally bald and often brings his bike along. We usually have students from the other classes with us, mostly younger than us. Jean-Paul loves walking (fast) and is what one might call, a dynamo.
After the first afternoon, when we toured the town I protested and he has attempted to treat me gently since then. We come to an arangement; I stay in one place for a rest, while he route marches everyone else to the top of any available hill and marches down again, playing his flute, to call me to attention!

Yesterday we visited a chocolaterie at the end of the tram line. It was a wonderful afternoon in the tiny kitchen, being instructed by the chocolatiere and fed the most delicious chocolates and a cup of hot chocolate. Unfortunately I had not taken my camera!

Tomorrow we all go to Avignon for a big day out and I have already reached a mutually satisfactory agreement with JP about how the day will be organised. He is delightful actually and his "joie de vivre" is catching.
After the visit to the choc shop the strike, (which happens each Thursday, or so it seems) had caused the trams to be suspended. It looked like we would have to wait for over an hour for one to arrive. This didn't phase JP in the least. He whipped out his flute and had the students dancing a traditional dance on the tramstop. This caused the passing motorists much amusement. Fortunately we only had to wait 30 minutes.

My host family is the best part. Although I am a little out of the centre, the home is in a lovely suburban area and Michelle (who works full time as a scientist) and Michel (who is retired), are very kind and generous hosts. Michelle is the most amazing cook and every evening we have at least four courses, all delicious home cooking of the region. As you can imagine I am very appreciative. She made me an appointment with her hairdresser and I now have a very French haircut.

Now it is Friday afternoon and we are free to explore. I have found a lovely pair of French shoes which I am coveting. I may have to succumb to temptation. I am very impressed by Montpellier, it really is delightful but temptations abound!

Buon Compleanno Rosella

Rosella's birthday was a dessert treat. People didn't arrive till 9pm by which time I am usually past it. Somehow I managed to stay awake and reasonably alert! Some of the guests spoke a little English, so together with my "poco Italiano" I managed to have some conversation. I find I can understand quite a lot as long as they speak slowly. If anyone gets excited then I am lost!I think that the two years I studied Latin in high school is proving very useful to me now. It is such a shame that kids today miss out on that enriching experience, which is helpful in English too. At the time I didn't appreciate this of course.
Rosella's brother's girlfriend is a journalist on one of the big papers here and she speaks English well, having lived in New York for eight years.
I enjoyed speaking to her about her work in the economy section of the paper. She also had no journalist training and started writing about art when she lived in NY. As she has an economics degree she started writing about that to get work when she returned to Itlaia.
Rosella got lots of lovely presents from her friends, including many books, and pot plants for the terrace. She will have quite a jungle now!

Arrividerci Milano

Last day in Milano and time to visit the Duomo again. In 2005 it was grey and sombre. Now it is pink and spotless thanks to a major restoration programme. It is a very impressive sight in the enormous piazza. The marble glows in the sunshine.
The nearby Galleria is always im pressive. I love the displays of gloves and ties all colours of the rainbow. The floor is amazing.

Mothering Sunday in Milano

Mothers' day at Galleria d'Arte Moderna in the Girdini Pubblici.

Orticola 2008 in Milano

Museo di Leonardo da Vinci

A big day out on Lago Maggiore

On Tuesday because it was a very fine day we had a big day out on Lago Maggiore.
First by train to Arona, then the boat trip up the lake. The water was
smooth as glass and the sky blue with white fluffy clouds. It was magical, towns and villages lined the shore with the mountains as a backdrop, topped with just a little
snow. Red rooves and green hillsides, villas with
gardens stretching to the waters edge, it was a wonderland to someone used to the untouched beauty of the lakes in New Zealand.

It was a very long day. We visited just one of the three islands, Isola
Madre. Rosella says this is the best and I think she was correct. The
botanical gardens and the palazzo were very interesting and so beautiful. I
filled up my memory card! There were many camellia japonicas still in
flower and many plants I am familiar with in my garden. Every corner
produced another amazing vista.

We took the late afternoon boat back to Stresa and walked to the statione
where we rewarded ourselves with a campari soda aperitif and nibbles.
Needless to say we didnt see much scenery from the train on the way back to
Milano! We were exhausted and a little sunburnt but it was another
wonderful day out. The next day was basically a do nothing day.